30-Day Solo Travel in Europe | Day 6: Visit Miffy's Hometown in Utrecht

(Previous chapter of my trip: 30-Day Solo Travel in Europe | Day 5: In Search of 'The Girl with a Pearl Earring'）

On my sixth day in the Netherlands, I decided to make my way to Utrecht, the hometown of Miffy. I was already looking forward to this place after seeing several Instagram posts about the adorable Miffy traffic light there.

The train ride took about half an hour. Stepping out of the station, I was greeted by a large, modern shopping centre. All the familiar European and American brands inside made me feel like I was almost back in one of Hong Kong’s shopping malls. But as I walked through and reached the other side, street views are classic Dutch architectural style. What a fascinating blend of old and new.

One of the best things about Utrecht is that most attractions are within walking distance. Not only did this save me the cost of tram tickets (and yes, transport in the Netherlands is quite pricey), but it also let me take in the views at my own pace. Before this trip, I had reminded myself to keep things slow and relaxed. I wanted to take my time to appreciate small joys in everyday life than rushing to tick off must-see spots. Utrecht was perfect for that. Though it doesn’t have many famous landmarks (well at least it is best known as Miffy’s hometown), this fourth-largest city in Utrecht radiates a calm, laid-back charm.

I took the chance to visit the Miffy Museum in person, but adult fans of the little rabbit might feel a tinge of disappointment. It feels less like a museum, more like a Miffy-themed playground for toddlers and kids. Still, if you take a moment to look closer, you’ll find displays showing how the design of Miffy has evolved over the years, from her earlier, slightly clumsier outlines to the soft, rounded curves she’s known for today. It’s a quiet journey to see how this unassuming little rabbit from an illustration book has turned into a world sensation winning the hearts of people (Including mine, of course!)

I didn’t stay too long since the space was mostly filled with children playing, and I felt a little out of place. But as I was about to leave, I was drawn by the sound of a guitar. Following the music, I arrived at an old church, where a street musician was performing the old song ‘Scarborough Fair’ with his European accent. Walking further, I passed through a series of stone pillars and discovered a hidden garden behind the church. It was quiet and serene, almost like a gift the city had reserved just for passers-by.

In the afternoon, I returned to Amsterdam to visit the Van Gogh Museum. I was glad I’d booked my ticket in advance so I didn't have to wait in the long queue. The collection inside was impressive, definitely a treat almost for any Van Gogh's fan. Each section tells a different side the artist’s beautiful soul. Standing in front of Sunflowers, I felt his unshakable passion for life; For Almond Blossom that was painted for his brother Theo’s newborn son, I sensed a soft, hopeful tenderness; and standing before his self-portraits, I was struck by the depth in his eyes.

The crowds in the museum made a stark contrast to the loneliness Van Gogh must have felt when he was alive. If only he knew how many people have been inspired by his work, he would have been overjoyed. Perhaps, like Don McLean wrote in Starry Night: This world was never meant for one as beautiful as you. The light that Van Gogh shed was simply too bright for the world he lived in.

With only two days left of my trip in the Netherlands, I booked a guided tour to visit the Red Light District while learning more about the history, hoping to understand the city on a deeper level. As the guide filled in the historical background of the city, I finally made sense of some sights I’d passed by over the previous few days. For instance, the tilting canal houses aren’t errors in engineering. They’re gradually sinking house since they were built on the Netherlands’ soft, reclaimed land. And those famously narrow building blocks? They date back to a time when property tax was calculated based on the width of the house. The narrowest of them all, No. 22, still stands quietly by the canal, a quiet marker of times gone by.

Listening to history of the Red Light District and the origins of coffee shops, I felt like watching a real-life version of The Godfather movie. The tension between gangs and the area’s established families while money and power continues to shape the district’s future. As one American fellow traveller in our group remarked: 'Money talks'. It seems money always has the final say.

Our small group wandered through the Red Light District on a Sunday evening. Since it was a Sunday, most of the windows were still dark, and we didn’t get to see the scene of sex workers displaying themselves to attract customers. Our guide gently reminded us to offer basic respect: 'They want customers, not viewers.' For sex workers, this is their profession. As visitors, it’s important to remember our manners. Do not take photos without their permission, and no treating the area like a zoo.

My journey continues: 30-Day Solo Travel in Europe | Day 7: Rembrandt's 'Night Watch' & Dutch Golden Age