30-Day Solo Travel in Europe | Day 3: The 'Van Gogh Sanctuary' Hidden in Forest

5/11/2023

(Previous chapter of my journey: 30-Day Solo Travel in Europe | Day 2: Finding Joy in My Own Company)

Can't believe it's already my third day in the Netherlands. I woke earlier and had my breakfast in a relaxing morning. Then I set off for the Kröller-Müller Museum, home to the world's second-largest collection of Van Gogh's works, after only the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam.

The journey from the Amsterdam downtown took about two hours. Being unfamiliar with the routes, I missed my train and ended up waiting on the platform with winds blowing on my face for over half an hour. I had to breath into my hands to keep myself warm. After several transfers, including the train to Ede-Wageningen station and two buses, I finally came close to that artistic sanctuary nestled deep within the woods.

While I was waiting for the bus, I met several fellow travellers: two aunties from Taiwan, a grey-haired lady from California, and a Swedish guy. We talked a bit of everything: from the Kröller-Müller Museum to the upcoming Vermeer exhibition at the Rijksmuseum. Even though we didn't know much about each other, yet we shared a warm connection through our mutual passion in art.

I told the elderly lady I was from Hong Kong, and that hardly any of my friends were keen to visit museums with me. Rather than wait for like-minded companions, I decided to go by myself. She smiled understandingly and said: 'I told my husband that I am going to a museum today. He said he was not interested. And I said bye bye and then came here by myself.'

The Kröller-Müller Museum lies within National Park De Hoge Veluwe, also known as the 'Van Gogh Forest'. Far from the city's noise, this serene and inspiring landscape made for a truly soul-cleansing journey.

Wandering through the galleries, I began with classical works by Dutch painters, moved through the Impressionist section, and finally reached the star attraction – the Van Gogh Gallery. Stepping inside, I was greeted by Cafe Terrace at Night and Portrait of Joseph Roulin – it felt almost surreal. Later, as I was browsing postcards in the gift shop, I discovered the collection also included Van Gogh's self-portrait and At Eternity's Gate, though sadly these weren't on display during my visit.

The exhibited works fell largely into two categories: Van Gogh's early pieces from the Netherlands, and his later work from his time in France. His early works followed the Dutch classical tradition – darker tones, strong contrasts of light and shadow. His famous early painting The Potato Eaters is one of the museum's important collections.

Standing before it, I was suddenly transported back to secondary school art class, where my art teacher taught us about Van Gogh's life. This very painting was on her PowerPoint slide. Life is wonderfully strange; everything seems connected in ways we can't foresee. I never particularly enjoyed art class back then since I had zero talent for handicrafts. But the stories our teacher told have stayed with me all these years.

Van Gogh only started his artistic calling in middle age, and was entirely self-taught. Deeply interested in the working class and influenced by Millet, he created a whole series depicting labourers' lives early in his career. What most people recognise, though, is the Impressionist style he developed after moving to France – vibrant colours, bold and expressive brushstrokes full of life. Gazing at his paintings, I began dreaming of my next stop, France. How closely would the scenery I see match his vision? The Parisian cafés, the beautiful Provençal landscapes... The reality might turn out to be very ordinary. Yet through Vincent's eyes, the world became more beautiful than life itself.

For lunch, I ordered a sausage roll and apple pie, with a white coffee. Even when travelling alone, it's important to take good care of myself. And that starts with treating my stomach well!

After lunch, I strolled through the open-air sculpture garden. I made me reflect on how confined artistic expression often feels in Hong Kong. Here, works of all styles and sizes are displayed freely. Spending an art-filled afternoon deep in the forest left me feeling radiant. Being able to see so many Van Gogh's artworks in person made the entire trip worthwhile.