30-Day Solo Travel in Europe | Day 22: A Three Tenors Night Without Nessun Dorma
5/30/2023
(Previous chapter of my journey: Day 21: Sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo)
Florence has a way of making you feel like you’ve stepped into a painting you already know by heart. After watching the documentary Inside the Uffizi back in Hong Kong with my friend, walking into the Uffizi Gallery felt strangely familiar, almost like returning to a place we’d visited in our dreams.
Outside, the sculpture garden stood silent and dignified under the afternoon light. Inside, we found ourselves face to face with Leonardo da Vinci’s unfinished Adoration of the Magi and Titian’s sensual Venus of Urbino, reclining gracefully against a deep green wall. These were the very scenes we had admired on screen, now quietly breathing in front of us.
And yet, as with many long-anticipated moments, reality carries its own rhythm.
We pushed gently through the crowds, trying to get a proper look at Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus. Even when we managed to reach the front for a quick photo, the wave of visitors behind us pressed forward relentlessly, forcing us to surrender our spot far sooner than we would have liked. There was little room for quiet contemplation, but seeing so many masterpieces gathered under one roof still felt like a quiet blessing – a moment of beauty worth the gentle chaos.
As we were leaving the venue, we were stopped by a couple. The gentleman, pushing a baby trolley, asked politely, 'Excuse me, do you speak English?' My friend nodded. He continued with a hopeful smile, 'Did they sing Nessun Dorma tonight? I was busy looking after the baby and was afraid I might have missed it.' I couldn’t help but laugh softly as I replied, 'No… they didn’t sing it.' It seemed we weren’t the only ones feeling a little short-changed.
Whenever people mention 'The Three Tenors,' most of us immediately picture Pavarotti with his eyes closed, face full of raw emotion, singing as though his very life depended on every note. One of the most unforgettable moments in their history was the night they performed ‘O sole mio’ together. Pavarotti suddenly began improvising and showing off, and the other two tenors, refusing to be outdone, joined in with their own flourishes. The orchestra looked on in amused disbelief while the audience erupted in delight. It was a playful battle of legends, a spontaneous feast of talent that those lucky enough to witness would never forget.
Thankfully, on this particular night, they skipped ‘Nessun Dorma’ (‘No one sleeps’). And as it turned out, I slept rather well myself.
(My journey continues: Day 23: Michelangelo’s Young ‘Bacchus’ at Bargello)
After spending several hours lost among the artworks, we turned our attention to the second mission of our time in Italy: finding a genuine leather handbag for my mum, a combined Mother’s Day and birthday gift. We had been browsing for two days, but in the end, we returned to the very first shop we had visited. The friendly old gentleman who had served us on Sunday was nowhere to be seen. When I asked, the owner explained with a smile that the man had only been helping out as a favour. Today, the boss himself was behind the counter.
We bargained for a better price politely but firmly, and to our delight, he generously knocked a few dozen euros off the price. With two satisfied hearts and two beautiful new bags in our hands, we left the shop feeling lighter and happier.
That evening, we treated ourselves to an affordable ticket for 'The Three Tenors' performance. I had been a little worried my friend might find it dull, but thankfully most of the arias were well-known classics that kept her engaged. Still, I couldn’t help feeling slightly disappointed. The promotional materials had heavily featured ‘Nessun Dorma’ and even listed ‘O sole mio’ on the programme, yet neither piece was performed. It left a rather sour aftertaste, almost like false advertising wrapped in beautiful music.


